DC -> Crater Rim Straight
The current route is in the same location as our route update on 07/28. The route is standard from Camp Muir to the top of the Cleaver, currently with no adjuncts. The route then goes direct from the top of the cleaver toward the summit. This takes climbers through a steep section of snow that ends in a single vertical ladder at 12.8k. There is a handline and pickets for running protection. As always, inspect these pieces of "fixed gear" before using them. Expect this section to change rapidly, especially with this prolonged period of high freezing levels. Below shows images of this section.
Topping out from the ladder, the route weaves through crevasses for a few hundred feet before approaching the traverse under a large crack at 13.2k that leads to the double ladder. This traverse is exposed to another section of overhead hazard, with a 'tidal wave' feature of sagging snow that hangs above in places. The route then ascends the double ladder that has fixed pro above, and a hand-line along the ladder. It continues through a steeper section that levels out around 13.5k, and continues to the summit.
Top of DC to Crater Rim (Guide Rock)
Long rope
Lots of crevasses
Latest reports say route now goes straight up through the crater towards the summit (steep until 13,500’)
Single vertical ladder at 12,800’ (there is a handline and pickets for running protection)
Traverse along large crack at 13,200’ (some overhead hazard from snow “tidal wave”); double ladder with fixed pro above and handline (need 30 feet of rope between each person to cross)
Enter Crater at about 14,100’
~1800’ gain/~3.5 hours
Guide Rock to Summit
Ok to unrope
Traverse through crater to true summit (Columbia Crest) on NW side (will pass Register Rock - must add our names!!)
Ice caves under the crater that are often covered by thin snow bridges, walk carefully
~300’ gain/20 minutes
Recommended that we spend no longer than an hour in the crater, including time it takes to walk from Guide Rock to summit and back
DC -> Crater Rim Straight
The current route is in the same location as our route update on 07/28. The route is standard from Camp Muir to the top of the Cleaver, currently with no adjuncts. The route then goes direct from the top of the cleaver toward the summit. This takes climbers through a steep section of snow that ends in a single vertical ladder at 12.8k. There is a handline and pickets for running protection. As always, inspect these pieces of "fixed gear" before using them. Expect this section to change rapidly, especially with this prolonged period of high freezing levels. Below shows images of this section.
Topping out from the ladder, the route weaves through crevasses for a few hundred feet before approaching the traverse under a large crack at 13.2k that leads to the double ladder. This traverse is exposed to another section of overhead hazard, with a 'tidal wave' feature of sagging snow that hangs above in places. The route then ascends the double ladder that has fixed pro above, and a hand-line along the ladder. It continues through a steeper section that levels out around 13.5k, and continues to the summit.
Top of DC to Crater Rim (Guide Rock)
Long rope
Lots of crevasses
Latest reports say route now goes straight up through the crater towards the summit (steep until 13,500’)
Single vertical ladder at 12,800’ (there is a handline and pickets for running protection)
Traverse along large crack at 13,200’ (some overhead hazard from snow “tidal wave”); double ladder with fixed pro above and handline (need 30 feet of rope between each person to cross)
Enter Crater at about 14,100’
~1800’ gain/~3.5 hours
Guide Rock to Summit
Ok to unrope
Traverse through crater to true summit (Columbia Crest) on NW side (will pass Register Rock - must add our names!!)
Ice caves under the crater that are often covered by thin snow bridges, walk carefully
~300’ gain/20 minutes
Recommended that we spend no longer than an hour in the crater, including time it takes to walk from Guide Rock to summit and back
Length
0.6 mi
Elevation gain
1,709 ft
Elevation loss
0 ft
Average slope angle
31º
Max slope angle
59º
Aspect
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