Damnation Gully



The crown jewel of ski mountaineering in the White Mountains. Usually climbed as a WI3 ice route, under the right conditions, this can be an amazing ski. The amount of rappels necessary can vary from season to season, but there is always one mandatory rappel in middle of the route. The best approach is to climb the route from the bottom to assess where the ice is. Depending on your risk tolerance, you may want to bring enough screws to lead the crux pitch if you’re not comfortable soloing.
The top of the route is often capped with a cornice. This can be avoided to skiers right via a softer entry. The line begins with 50 degree turns in a majestic upper couloir. Weave around blue ice and rocks as the line meanders and fuels you towards the crux, a small ice bulge presents a dicey move above big exposure. In lean years this could be another rappel. Look for a small alcove to skiers left where you can set a rappel anchor high and back from the edge. As of 2023 there was a fixed anchor with three medium to large nuts in place, but bring your own rock gear and tat. Rappel over the WI3 ice bulge and gain access to the lower gully. These turns feel victorious after all the exposure and ropework you just endured. Ski out to the fan and enjoy open turn to the bottom of the ravine. You’ve just skied one of the most coveted technical routes in the range!
Damnation Gully



The crown jewel of ski mountaineering in the White Mountains. Usually climbed as a WI3 ice route, under the right conditions, this can be an amazing ski. The amount of rappels necessary can vary from season to season, but there is always one mandatory rappel in middle of the route. The best approach is to climb the route from the bottom to assess where the ice is. Depending on your risk tolerance, you may want to bring enough screws to lead the crux pitch if you’re not comfortable soloing.
The top of the route is often capped with a cornice. This can be avoided to skiers right via a softer entry. The line begins with 50 degree turns in a majestic upper couloir. Weave around blue ice and rocks as the line meanders and fuels you towards the crux, a small ice bulge presents a dicey move above big exposure. In lean years this could be another rappel. Look for a small alcove to skiers left where you can set a rappel anchor high and back from the edge. As of 2023 there was a fixed anchor with three medium to large nuts in place, but bring your own rock gear and tat. Rappel over the WI3 ice bulge and gain access to the lower gully. These turns feel victorious after all the exposure and ropework you just endured. Ski out to the fan and enjoy open turn to the bottom of the ravine. You’ve just skied one of the most coveted technical routes in the range!
Length
0.3 mi
Elevation gain
0 ft
Elevation loss
-1,286 ft
Average slope angle
39º
Max slope angle
55º
Aspect
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